Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Decisions

I'm coming up on my 4th round of manufacturing, and I'd like to think i've learned a lot in the last 2.5 years. I've learned why some items sell slower than others. I've learned that buyers are often looking for a deal because their customers are looking for a deal. I've learned that I often have to undervalue some of my pieces in order to put them into stores, or perhaps what I have actually learned there is that things need to be pristinely manufactured in order to deserve their appropriate price tag. All of these lessons are coming into play right now as I decide what to manufacture.

I do not automatically manufacture everything I design for each season because some things just don't make sense. My production runs are small and I manufacture locally so my costs are not really that low. (That said, my prices are significantly lower than those "high end" manufacturers who make everything in china!) Often, I find that the cost to manufacture dictates a selling price way more than what most of my customers would be willing to spend! 

Here are a few examples of items that would never have sold at their appropriate selling price


This silk camisole would retail for something like $200 and it's really hard to wear a bra under it. Would any of you out there pay that much for a silk cami?



This skirt doesn't have such a bad retail price, still winding up under $300, but how many women would rock both the porthole wasteband AND the fluttering layers on their hips. I designed it and I think it is actually flattering, but after working in retail for many years I know far too many women are incredibly insecure about wearing anything that might make them look wider. Any takers on this one?  


This one I am still debating. These leggings are from my fall 2012 collection, due out in stores in just a couple months. The contrast panels on this new version of the leggings are custom designed (by me of course) laser cut leather lace. The laser cutting process is by no means inexpensive and that puts these signature Linden leggings at a retail value of $385. Limited edition or not (there might be a grand total of 50 of these out there should I decide to make them), unless you are a recognized brand name it is hard to get someone to spend almost $400 on a pair of leggings. 











The image above brings me to my point about making a decision. I mentioned once before that I found a machine washable fish leather. It is completely sustainable (except for the part where it has to be shipped from iceland) because it requires only hot water for the tanning process and the plant is situated on natural hot springs so there is no excess energy wasted in heating the water. And oh, did I mention, MACHINE WASHABLE LEATHER! It is scaled and has a beautiful exotic look and also comes in a variety of colors. Where's the catch? It is not cheap. I have had a number of people asking me to recut the original Linden moto leggings (right), but the people asking are referring to the original washed lambskin leggings at a price of $225, but these leggings cut with fish leather may retail much closer to $400 as well. (This also takes into account that i have switched to a way better manufacturer but at a slightly higher cost) But just imagine them in steely grey, or bright red and obviously, black. Would you wear them? Would you pay that price tag for them? I always try to keep in mind that brands like Helmut Lang manufacture leather leggings for about $1000 (yes i know they are all leather and not just partial like mine) and those are not made locally. 


it's time to decide - order the fish leather, or not?  

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