Thursday, November 10, 2011

saving the world vs looking good

ok so saving the world might be a little extreme, but as you know i've been seeking out more sustainable fabrics.  Yesterday I visited 2 vendors that tout eco-friendly materials and it is quite sad how little effort seems to go into creating them.  They tend to be bland and unexciting- of course the world is going to continue using toxic materials if nobody out there is going to take the effort to make the sustainable ones chic!

The first place I went to uses organic cottons and hemp and bamboo (which is actually not eco friendly at all) but still makes those fabrics with some polyester to keep the prices down.  On top of it the fabric isn't actually all that wonderful.  TRAGIC!

The second I went to is the only leather tannery in the country, perhaps the world, who has perfected a vegetable tanning process for more than just saddle quality hides.  The leathers were actually gorgeous and I will use them in the future for jackets and purses, BUT they're much too heavy for the leggings and dresses I make - I will look into this a bit more to see if there is a way I can work with it, but sadly I am stuck with lambskin again this time around until I get the samples from the fish leather tannery in iceland (still waiting!) The other issue I had with the tanner was that in a huge warehouse full of hides, they had maybe 2 shelves dedicated to the eco-friendly ones.  Granted they do take custom orders and I could request any number of colors or finishes, but it still irked me, especially because the regular hides come in so many different weights where the eco hides are only the one heavy weight.

The other problem I'm running into is that because my business is run on such a small scale, I am often at the will of whatever small quantities I can find.  On the plus side, I wind up buying ends and deadstock of already made materials, not generating more energy to create something that is already there, but I still want to know that if something of mine winds up in a landfill it will not leach harmful chemicals into the earth.  Still researching, but in the meantime continuing with the same materials I've been using.

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Just Ask

I've spent almost 2 years now contacting strangers out of the blue trying to get them to help me in some way.  I contact businesses for textiles, notions, and other situations where I am the customer, and I get responses.  But more often than trying to buy things, I'm trying to sell them.  It is not always so easy to get a response, but once in a while...

Linden has added 2 stores in the last 2 weeks.  In September I went to Montreal and Quebec City with my family.  I walked into Boutique Mademoizelle Sefra in Quebec City with my sister after a day of touring.  It's a super chic boutique that, at the time, had a small rack of clothing and several jewelry cases.  The clothing was their own line, and the jewelry was theirs and some other independent designers.  We struck up a conversation with the two people working there who happened to be the co-owners.  They told us they'd recently opened and in addition to their jewelry and clothing lines, they are running a styling business for customers in need of some head to toe fashion guidance.  I'd taken a business card with me when we left, and one night when I was going through a huge stack of cards on my desk, i stumbled across it.  That night I emailed them, and later that night, I got a response.  Jean-Felix was, again, friendly and welcoming.  After some back and forth, he and his partner Sefra, decided to pick up a few pieces to test out and, voila! New stockist!

The other store was a different kind of contact, one I've always had but never made the effort to cross the line from friend to business.  My friend Grace, one of the few people I stayed in touch with post art school, and the ONLY one from the fashion department, opened a boutique in her hometown of Glenview IL called Stella + Grace.  I visited a couple years ago and this boutique is ADORABLE.  She carries some more mainstream lines, and some small unknown designers, hand picking everything herself.  She knows her customer well.  The same night I got in touch with Mademoizelle Sefra, I emailed Grace.  I asked if we could test some of my stock with her customers on consignment (meaning she doesn't order from me, but I send her stock and she pays me as she sells).  She got the first box 5 days ago, and has already sold several pieces, requesting a replenishment already!

It was great to get some encouragement after so many attempts to contact boutiques with no response.  While there might be a lot of "NO", every "YES" seems that much greater and reminds me that even if most people say no, all I have to do is ask and sometimes I'll get a yes!

Research

pretty

Friday, September 23, 2011

Sustainability

I have always been interested in sustainability, and recently I've had that interest renewed.  I have been doing a lot of reading on the subject lately, but I don't promise to be an expert on this concept, so dont hate me if I'm a little bit off on some of this..i'm still learning.

 Sustainability is a tough concept to describe in relation to fashion, but the best way I can put it is producing a product with limited energy consumption that can either maintain its usefulness over time, or return to the earth without added harm to the environment.  I started Linden with this in mind, but at the time I was more concerned with simply producing a 10 look collection so i mainly focused on producing locally as my effort in sustainability.  I have since begun researching how to keep my aesthetic while using materials that are more sustainable.

In my searching I have discovered some interesting things:

1. many "revolutionary" textiles on the market are often the result of excellent marketing - for example, polyester derived from recycled PET bottles is merely prolonging the inevitable of being another  harmful item in a landfill.  It is unlikely that the recycled fabric will be repurposed in the future, and in its textile state it is more difficult to break down again to reuse.  These textiles have been brilliantly marketed as keeping plastics out of the landfills and oceans, but the best way to stop plastic from hurting our environment is to find a less harmful alternative so plastic production slows down.

2. natural "environmentally friendly" materials, while bio-degradable, can still be polluting.  Cotton requires a great deal of pesticides and energy to produce - organic cotton is significantly better though, but still consumes a sizable amount of energy to harvest.  Often the natural substance has a flaw, especially with regards to mass production, that keeps it from being truly sustainable.  That said, because it is biodegradable, it is still superior to plastics.

3. Leather, my guiltiest design pleasure, while natural and using the whole animal, is usually treated chemically and as a result is quite harmful to the environment.  There are leathers tanned with natural substances that are not harmful, but their uses are more limited.  I have however, excitingly come across fish leather.  Again it is natural, and uses the part of the animal which is usually just discarded, but it simply requires hot water and not chemicals.  The source I have found uses a natural hot spring instead of powering water heaters, and the only drawback I have found so far is that I would need to ship it from Iceland, but I think I can live with that since most of the leather I use is not tanned locally (looking into that as well) and is also shipped to the states.

So what i've learned so far is that I cannot produce a product that is completely sustainable, but I can, at the very least, reduce the amount of polluting waste my line produces as much as possible.  I mean, even sparing some bottles from the landfill temporarily gives us all a bit more time to find another way to repurpose those plastics.

I will continue to share my findings here!

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

So what should I wear?

I am certain those of you out there who are also in the fashion industry experience this, I am regularly asked by new acquaintances where to shop and how to dress.  It's a question that amuses me because half the time I never know what to wear myself.  I've probably never dressed "right" for a job interview, or a date, or a nice restaurant, and I constantly harass my best friend and my mom for approval once i've settled on something to wear (and let me tell you they are both brutally honest - which i desperately need).

The thing is, I've always felt there is no "right way" to dress.  Because I studied costume design, I look at my wardrobe to hold some representation of who I am.  I have quite a few personalities according to my closet, but the understanding of what I am looking for comes from the creative side within me, and is about who I am, which is why it perplexes me when people ask for my advice, especially people I don't know well.  They ask, "What should I wear?", and I can't help but reply with, "Whatever you want to wear!"  They often look at me confused, as if I am meant to be their fashion sage and guide them through the difficult world of shopping.  How should I know what ideal image they are trying to fit so I can suggest the right attire for them?  There are so many different ways to dress, for all shapes and sizes, and there is no longer one right way to dress.

I shop all over the spectrum, from places like Forever 21, PacSun, and H & M to Bloomingdales, Saks, Neimans, etc.  I mix cheap with designer constantly - and usually the outfits I get the most positive reactions on are the less expensive ones.  But the one thing that is a constant is that when I actually make an effort to look a certain way, something I am wearing has to channel the ridiculous or the absurd - but that's my thing.

How do you find yours?  I'm not sure, but if its a matter of "how do I dress for my body type?" - either start with the magazines that have cornered the market of telling you what to wear, or look up people who have the same shape as you.  See what they get away with and then go shopping - ANYWHERE - and try things on, figure out how to make that look your own.  Show your personality in what you wear whether its a bright color or a mismatched print, or shoes that dont necessarily make sense -- all that matters is you love what you wear and you wear it with confidence.  There is no sense in walking out the door without feeling amazing about yourself - there is a look out there for you, but you have to find it yourself.

My only real advice - it's best not to longingly look at the stylings of someone who is your opposite in shape, size, lifestyle etc.  I know a lot of people who say "I wish i could dress like ..." - try it, but if it's not for you move onto something else and don't look back wishing you were anything but who you are.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Beginning of Hope/Craigslist is a wonderful thing

A few months ago I got bored and started searching the creative gigs on craigslist.  This was certainly not the first time I've done so, and not the first time I wound up making great contacts as a result.



The first paid design job I ever had thanks to Dee.
A motorola campaign with Danica Patrick and "her dog"
The first time I found success, I found a listing by stylist Dee Anderson.  She turned out to be the stylist for one of my all time favorite bands, Green Day.  I cannot even begin to explain the many MANY things I learned in the several months I worked for Dee.  She's an amazingly talented stylist and was such a great influence on me.  So many of the great things I have done were a result of knowing Dee.



the poor Dresden Dolls
fan I had the pleasure of
dressing on set







The second time, I worked on a Dresden Dolls music video assisting Katie Kay as the stylist.  Not only was it just a super fun video, knowing Katie resulted in Linden being sold at her fantastic boutique Gather and her being my sales rep, getting the line out  into the world.  Yet another incredible contact via CL.






The third time, I found an internship with Park Showroom owner Kristen Aguilera, and without her I would never have gained enough knowledge of the fashion industry to start my own line.

Four and Five were within a week of each other.  I met up and coming stylist Corina Garcia through her CL ad where we teamed up to shoot the spring 2011 photos on www.Lindenca.com AND I found the Elite fashion academy posting that led to my very first Linden fashion show.  Just check the website and past posts to see the results of those efforts.

And now here I am, several months later with yet another successful contact made.  I replied to an ad early in the year regarding a charity fashion show event in San Diego.  Stacey Blanchet, of Blanchet Designs, has coordinated a wonderful event, titled "Beginning of Hope", benefiting two charities dedicated to foster youth.  The event will take place this coming Wednesday in San Diego (May 18th, 2011) and will feature 3 designers showing, some local artisans vending, wine tasting, food, a silent auction, and a raffle, all to benefit these charities.  I haven't shared the information about this show until now because I only finally met Stacey a day ago, and finally started to feel more involved in the whole thing.  I have cast my models, and cannot wait to be a part of this show.  I know most of you reading this are in Los Angeles, but should anyone find themselves in San Diego wednesday, here's how you can attend this wonderful event.  http://www.blanchetdesigns.com/news.html


Photos WILL be posted asap!

Thursday, April 7, 2011

waste not

There has always been one thing that really bothers me about the fashion industry - the waste.  Starting with sampling, we make patterns, cut that pattern in muslin, sew it together, make adjustments, make a new pattern and sew it into a sample.  Of all of that, only the final pattern and sample are not going to get thrown out.  Move onto production - when pieces are cut out they are put on a marker.  A marker is each pattern piece of each size spread out across the fabric to utilize as much fabric as possible.  But there is still always waste, and always leftover fabric.  Much of this goes into the trash.  Next is shipping out production - pieces are tagged, wrapped in tissue, and poly-bags to be as protected as possible while they travel to shops.  The shops then unpack each item, throwing out the poly bags and the tissue paper.


There is a green movement in fashion, trying to cut waste, but no matter what, it will always be a waste-heavy industry.  To minimize my own waste as a designer, I've begun taking scraps and turning them into wearable pieces instead of letting it go to the trash.  I plan to expand this effort, but for now, I'm making jewelry out of leather scraps that are too small to use for anything else.  Adding a little bit of whimsy to my designs, customers can now buy hand cut leather skull and unicorn earrings - this is only the beginning.  While I continue on with Linden, there will be many limited or one of a kind hand made items that I will use predominantly leftovers to produce.


Monday, March 14, 2011

Ugly

I have this fascination with anything that can be deemed ugly, ridiculous or absurd.  Ugly is the best word for this rant though.  At a point in my life, I realized that I want everything to have a chance to be beautiful.  An ugly fabric for example, if used in the right way, could become a beautiful garment.  (I also like to remember that calling a print or a pattern ugly could be demeaning that textile designer's masterpiece - unless they're like me and they kind of dig ugly).  For many years I have recollected the famed Warhol line, "if everybody is a beauty, then nobody is", and considered its meaning.  Warhol's obsession with mass production pointed out that when we are given too much of something, it loses what makes it special, so if everyone looked like a standard beauty, we would all be the same and therefore unattractive.  I think about this concept, and I look for the beauty in things that would not otherwise be considered as such.  There's been an ongoing joke in my life that those of you who know me well are aware of - I like to collect ugly things, including the men I find attractive (to clarify, I don't mean to say I go after ugly men, I just have such different tastes from my friends that it has led me to believe I pursue the off beat type and not the "standard", I personally find them very attractive).  Similarly, I am notorious for wanting the granny furniture because I want to give it a chance to be loved, or picking up the ugliest dress in a store because I need to know if it looks better on the body than on the hanger, or finding the ugliest art and believing it should belong to me because it is so ridiculous, or wanting the ugliest animal in the pet shop because it's so ugly that it's cute.

People talk about soul mates, and how there is someone out there for everyone, I like to think there is something out there for everyone.  As a designer, no matter what you design, someone out there will like it - even if it's really only just one person.  Creating is a beautiful thing as long as it fulfills something in someone, even if everyone else in the world thinks what you have created is ugly.

---End Rant---

Friday, March 4, 2011

my niche?

I've designed 3 seasons now.  Each season I've learned more about the business, more about how to relate to my (or any) pattern maker, more about the types of fabrics I want to use, and more about what I do best. While I really do like this last collection, I think I got a little lost trying to fill several categories and be marketable in all of them.  The pieces do go together and work together, but somewhere along the line I lost my original intention, and now its time to regroup.

The interesting thing I learned post trade show is something I'd suspected after my second collection - my leggings have the potential to be my design niche in the fashion world.  I'm actually really amused by this because a few years back when leggings began to make their way back into mainstream fashion, I absolutely resisted.  I resisted skinny jeans too though, and I think it had to do with adjusting my mind set toward a new silhouette.  But now, here I am, hoping to finalize larger orders on leggings.  It's definitely made me start to rethink the direction I take the line in, or at least it gives me something to design around for the next couple of season.  Basically, expect less silk, more cotton, leather, and lace.

On a somewhat related note - Keri Hilson was the host of the official Grammy's after party this year, where she was wearing the original Linden moto leggings (pulled by her stylist from Gather, 630 S Main St Los Angeles CA 90014 - www.gatherla.com).  Here's the best photo I could find via google, but I'm working on getting a better one.

Sunday, February 13, 2011

And it's time to rest...for 1 minute

That lull I'd mentioned - short lived

I'm officially exhausted.  Fabrics I'd custom ordered from UK weavers Joshua Ellis showed up a mere 6 days before my fall 2011 deadline - stressing out not only me, but my pattern maker too.  That small amount of time means no margin for error, no time to deal with possible fabric errors, and a serious rush on samples that would otherwise have more time.  If the fabrics had shown up any later, those samples may never have been completed, and those pieces turned out to be some of my favorite in the collection, so what a relief that they came in! WHEW

Aside from running all over the city trying to get everything done on time, fighting the computer trying to create line sheets for the trade show, and sewing some accessories on my domestic machine at home, I'd been struggling with how expensive starting a company can be, and decided it was time to get a part time job - which I started this week - my craziest week

So basically I'm too tired to write anything interesting, but hey, here are some pics!

 




   

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Happy Birthday Carrie

So today it's my oldest sister Carrie's birthday.  It got me thinking about the influence a sibling might have on something like artistic development.

The way it has always seemed to me, Carrie sees the world differently than your average person.  Her sense of style has never been dictated by any magazine, the art she enjoys has little to do with how much it costs or how reputable the artist is, and she has a love of the absurd that is both frustrating and admirable.  As a teenager she would write esoteric and often disturbing short stories to traumatize me with, but the thing about each story was how incredibly original each one was.  I will never forget when she took one of my childhood books about a horse and her hat and turned it into a cautionary tale of a horse who wanted to fly with the birds, got her wish, and suffered the consequences (amputated legs replaced with dixie cups).  I was so influenced by this story, I did a project on it in college.  It's because of these things, that I think Carrie has contributed to my ability and need to think for myself.

To this day, and sometimes to my mother's chagrin, my sister still maintains some of her childhood tastes, sometimes buying ridiculous necklaces meant for kids or silly tshirts not intended for her market.  It's these types actions that have influenced me over the years.  At one point I realized that I really love to take ugly things and give them a chance to be beautiful, or that I really like to take things that should not go together, and find harmony in their unlikely pairing.  I sometimes think this came from a youthful desire to be like my older sister with her well rounded and often bizarre interests and tastes.  That's not to say she is without taste, it is simply unique to her and definitely to be appreciated.

Happy Birthday Carrie

Friday, January 28, 2011

The L.A. Version of Runway










So I finally tracked down a video of the fashion show I was privileged enough to be in last November - it was on YouTube - who knew?

Since it was my very first solo show, I thought I'd share a bit about it.

It all happened very fast - I responded to a craigslist ad on a sunday, and was selected to be in the show that evening.  Tuesday I met with the stylist and the models where we chose the outfits for each of the girls.  Of course, the stylist and I didn't exactly see eye to eye on the concept, but that wasn't important - what was important was that Linden was having a public debut in Hollywood.

A really interesting thing has happened in LA - its so common for clubs and bars to put on fashion shows year round and not just be dedicated to organized tents and runways during fashion week.  It's a little refreshing, actually, for small designers to have venues where their clothing can be seen by the consumers themselves and not just the fashion elite.


So back on track, I showed up at the venue early - too early of course - parked*, and rolled racks into the venue.  I spent the next several hours with my mother and some backstage assistants steaming while the models had hair and makeup done, and then dressing the models once they were ready.  And then, we were all ready...and still ready...and still ready.  So we had a bit of a late start, but when it finally happened, I was backstage with the dressers, my stomach in knots, my hands shaking, and finally it was done and I had to walk out and wave at the crowd.  I stood out there for the finale with the models for what felt like ages, I could hear my close friends and family screaming every time I looked in their direction.  I went backstage, took some photos with the models and then joined the party where I had an excited group of friends waiting for me.  I'd never felt more justified in my choice to start a line than right there when I heard about the audience reaction from my friends, and even got to see the stunned looks on their faces.  Truly a memorable experience.




**It was almost a perfect night until about 30 minutes after the show I was asked to clean up the backstage area.  I packed everything up and took it all to my car, to learn I'd been towed.  WIN!

Monday, January 24, 2011

Lull

I'm currently in a lull as far as what is required of me.  Right now all I have to do are run a few errands to complete production, and wrap up the details of the next season so everything is ready for the trade show.  I'm just waiting for fabrics to come in, and doing technical drawings for line sheets.  (For those of you that don't know, line sheets are booklets companies provide to buyers that include technical flat drawings, fabric content, sizes available, colors, wholesale prices, delivery dates, and can include retail prices as well.)  Aside from that, there's some business end things to do before the end of the month - but all of those things together, there's not much to do that requires concentration.  My mind has been wandering - and has landed on this video:


Basically, I'm already plotting next season and its all inspired by Ida Maria

Friday, January 14, 2011

It's the little things

To most people, fashion is clothing.  It's what you wear, what you buy, and yes we all have some personal taste, but for the most part all of the subtleties go ignored.  Things like the right zipper to match the color of the fabric, in the right length, size, width of teeth, are often the kind that get left until the last minute - at least for me.  I'm dealing with several small details at the moment which may seem insignificant, but are actually quite important with regards to presentation.  And as we know, presentation makes a huge difference.

At the moment, I am preparing for two things.

1. Production of Spring 2011

2. Trade shows for Fall 2011

1. Production of spring includes several details that must be attended to.  Zippers are one, but another is care labels.  What size should they be, what weight, how much information should they hold, etc.  Each season fabrics differ, so they must be ordered season to season.  One thing you may not think of is called fusible interfacing.  Most waistbands are reinforced with it so they don't roll or shift.  There are dozens of weights with different adhesives, and I have lately been spending time tracking down the right one for spring.  It's not a visible part of a design, so it's something people don't necessarily consider when buying clothes, but it is very important.  Beyond that I'm just trying to round up everything from trims to fabrics so that the garments will get shipped on time.
 

2. Trade shows are tricky.  I spend so much time getting the collection together that sometimes I fail to remember the small things.  Customized order forms, hang tags with prices for a clean presentation to buyers, the right hangers - it all matters.  The trade shows are vast spaces filled with booth after booth - buyers look at hundreds if not thousands of designers in a matter of days - presentation makes a huge difference.  Someone may be more willing to stop if you have a striking item on a mannequin, or at least something eye catching hanging in the front of your rack.  So right now I am trying to make sure all of my samples are pristinely put together and that the presentation is immaculate.

the countdown begins Pool Trade Show - Las Vegas - Feb 14-16

And now I must get back to sorting out the details

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Hanger Appeal

I very often sketch out styles that can never exist as I imagine them.  They defy gravity and the laws of physics sometimes, or maybe I just haven't found the right materials to make them exist.  But I still I find myself wanting to get as close to those ideas as possible, so I work with my pattern maker to make it happen.  Sometimes, things just look much better as a sketch, but sometimes I'm pleasantly surprised with the result, and other times I'm appalled by the way a sample looks when it's handed to me on the hanger.  

This happened to me yesterday.  I had a dress in mind which was heading toward disaster before it was ever cut and sewn.  First I couldn't track down the right fabrics, then the right zippers, and then I had to change the design slightly to make it work, etc.  So yesterday when I looked at this sample, my heart sank.  But maybe I'm too close to the designs.  I have the ideal in my head so when it doesn't look like my vision, I panic a little.  I took the sample home, and tried it on - its actually pretty cool- but even so, a garment has to have hanger appeal - or nobody will buy it.  This got me thinking from a marketing point of view.

I'm a designer and an avid shopper and I fall victim to hanger appeal regularly.  I know better, I know that sometimes clothing can never look as good on a hanger as it does on a person.  I do sometimes see something that looks bizarre and decide to try it on, just to give it a chance, and I would say about half the time what i've tried on is actually a great piece.  But what if it's not great?  What if it's just nice, or ok?  Chances are you wont buy something that's just ok, especially if its a more expensive piece.  Will a buyer for a store even pick up a style that doesn't look great on a hanger?  It happens sometimes, but more often than not those things are passed over at trade shows and never produced.  It got me thinking, we designers spend a fortune on samples to take to trade shows, many of which may never be made because they lack hanger appeal.  But how do we know that it wont work out?

For me, design is an instinct.  It's a curiosity to see if two fabrics will work well together, or if that fit line is flattering or not.  More often than not I'm satisfied with my decisions, even when they don't turn out how I had expected - sometimes they turn out even better than I could have imagined.  So what is the lesson?  Do I consider the hanger more when I start my initial sketches?  Or do I continue as I have on instinct and curiosity and hope for the best?  I should probably attempt to blend the two, but I have a feeling one will win over the other - I guess we'll see.